No-frills pasta makes Capasso a very decent Italian Restaurant date spot
There exists no dearth of Italian restaurants in our city — sniffing out a chic casual pasta bar or a rustic pizzeria takes little effort.
For that alone, it’s an uphill battle for new debutants, such as Telok Ayer’s Capasso, to leap out to the casual diner amongst the sprawling ocean of similar establishments.
But undoubtedly, there is a certain charm to the nondescript Capasso as an Italian restaurant.
It’s chic but not flamboyant with a hint of old-school allure while weaving in an array of quirky modern art.
Not too outlandishly modern or gauchely masqueraded as some kind of old-school nonna’s kitchen — this tasteful and understated approach makes it feel all-too-cosy.
Simplicity is king
A good barometer of a restaurant’s attention to detail lies in the care put into handling inconspicuous bread and the Pane Della Casa ($7) embodies that with a simple house-baked koji bread.
It’s nice, fluffy and not too ostentatious, while the addictive smoked butter plays the perfect foil to its homely profile. Similar to it, the rest of Capasso’s menu follows the lead of its no-frills nature.
It’s apparent with the Tagliatelle ($30), propped up with the most timeless accoutrements of plum tomatoes, porcini, basil, and Parmigiano.
Built on a tapestry of perfectly al dente slender tagliatelle, it’s a creature comfort marrying earthy aromas to the unbeatable tangy richness of Italian tomatoes.
Capasso’s Ravioli ($34) was more of the same, with well-done textures huddled around a mound of tender duck leg confit and four-cheese confit.
Again, a safe and well-executed pasta dish but, like the former, lacks in je nais se quois to make a truly lasting impression. But if you’re craving simple, hearty pasta done well, this will absolutely leave no room for complaints.
It’s the same tale with the Maiale Caffe e Ciliege (S$38), though this did fall slightly short as its lusciousness is tarnished with doneness a whisper too far from the succulence we expected.
However, the port wine sauce, creamy mash and piquant grapes do play their part in reeling it back from disappointment. Overall, pretty solid but not quite near the realm of the best pork chops.
If it wasn’t obvious by now, I did enjoy Capasso. At the moment, it was an unquestionably delightful meal with solid, no-frills Italian classics, complemented by a sprinkling of elegance found in the ambience.
However, its offerings also fall short of carving out an indelible, lasting impression. Though I can say for sure: It’s a safe bet if you’re looking for a solid date spot in Telok Ayer.
Make your reservations here.
Capasso
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- Address: 92 Telok Ayer St, Singapore 048472
- Hours: (Mon–Fri) 12pm–3pm, 5pm–1am, (Sat) 6pm–1am