Supremely cosy: Asador at Joo Chiat is a bona fide Spanish restaurant gem
The discourse around Singapore’s best restaurants can be rather lopsided. More often than not, the central area monopolises the plaudits and other neighbourhoods — even beloved enclaves such as Tiong Bahru — are mostly neglected.
Alas, that may also be part of the allure of restaurant hunting in Singapore — people enjoy it when they escape the opulent clutches of the CBD and find quaint respite in the suburbs, much like how I think of Joo Chiat‘s Asador whenever the yearning for Spanish food arises.
It’s perhaps not correct to call it a hidden gem at this point and more of an underrated diamond — not many swanky Spanish restaurants dole out the same kind of indelibly homely vibe.
Although well-established after three strong years, Asador isn’t viewed with quite the same lustre attributed to Spanish stalwarts in the CBD, and also not exactly the first name to crop up from the back of mind.
Nonetheless, it has always stacked up strongly against any competition. And, after a reinvigorating 2024 relaunch that wraps up the restaurant in chicer trimmings and a refreshed wood-fired menu, it probably deserves an even closer look for those who haven’t visited.
Chef-owner Houssein Hafian Rodriguez and the team worked together to build a cosy third place that’s sleeker than its old open-air setup, but Asador still hides a touch of rusticism to it with its array of wooden fixtures.
More importantly, amidst the flourish of stylish minimalist sensibilities, sit a flurry of personal photos that give the space an immeasurably intimacy — you can see nostalgic snapshots of Chef Houssein, including memories with his childhood dog.
Robust Spanish Comfort
Touting itself as a wood-fired concept, Asador’s menu would undoubtedly unleash bouts of the smokiest flavours — something that holds even at the prologue with the Pan Casero ($13).
Wonderfully crunchy sourdough is a foregone conclusion for any top restaurant. However, Asador struts its wood-fired flair by pairing it with an intoxicatingly smoky house-smoked butter. An immaculate elevation.
Still, it’s not all embers and oomph for the Spanish outfit. Moreover, every proper meal requires some delicate touches to start it off — that’s where the Salmorejo ($18) comes in.
Asador’s combination of smoked cold tomato cream with jamon and stracciatella makes for the perfect appetite primer. It’s piquant and delightfully silky but still boasts a mild smoky-savour zing.
Those dainty little touches extend even to the heavier bites, as the Jamon Iberico ($16 for 2pcs) toast comes with grated tomato sandwiched between crusty cristal bread and inch-perfect sheets of hand-carved jamon.
The choice of ingredients ensures a satisfying but balanced bite that doesn’t feel too monotonous as bursts of nutty jamon umami lead the charge, but a cooling tomato tang deftly softens it out.
In contrast, Asador’s iconic Anchoas ($10 for 2pcs) is much more unabashed in its exuberance, gloriously showcasing the potent flavours of premium 00 anchovies sourced from the coastal town of Santona.
A long-time signature at the Joo Chiat restaurant, the anchovies are just as sharp and igratuitously briney as before — probably some of the best anchovies toast in Singapore.
The gratuitous Finishers
Past the small plates is where Asador’s menu gets exciting, particularly in the seafood department with standouts such as the Pulpo ($36), with a dissected grilled octopus leg and potato pave set atop a red pepper puree.
The tender and meaty octopus, complimented by red pepper aromas and a gentle lick of spice, is charming and the crackling potato blocks at the side? Pure textural heaven.
Talking about Asador’s seafood, it’s also obligatory to wax lyrical about the Gambones ($26) which feature five sublimely luscious grilled king prawns, their sumptuous crustacean sweetness mesmerisingly layered upon by garlic and a vibrant amontillado praline.
Quite possibly a new favourite, even trumping the talismanic anchovies toast.
Though the carnivores might be more inclined to the other legendary signature here, the roasted Spanish suckling pig, Cochinillo (S$98 for a quarter, S$188 for half)
No bells and whistles here, with a straightforward indulgence — delicate and airy crinkles when biting through the skin to reach the hearty and juicy pork underneath it.
Asador does a pretty damn solid rendition of this Spanish classic and, on top of that, might have even improved since our last visit where the meat was beset with more dry spots.
However, the Cordero Lechal ($88) also presents a strong alternative as the roasted milk-fed lamb leg arrives tender and clean, whispering with a light and pleasant hint of lamb game.
The dish is then doused in a serving of olive oil to infuse an earthy fragrance, nicely accentuating the lamb’s mild gamey richness.
From start to finish, the feast at Asador showcases one thing: The team has the finesse to pull off a huge range of flavours. From carefully grilled seafood to large roasts. And from delicate to rambunctious.
At its core, Asador irrefragably makes a strong case for itself as one of the best Spanish restaurants in Singapore. Coupled with its supremely cosy setting and quaint location? It’s a gem with a charm quite unlike any other.
Make a reservation online before visiting Asador at Joo Chiat.
Asador
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- Address: 51 Joo Chiat Pl, Singapore 427775
- Hours: (Mon–Thurs) 5:30pm to 12am, (Fri–Sun), 12pm to 2pm, 5:30pm to 12am
*This was an invited tasting.