Duxton’s Kumi Den Elegantly simplifies the unpretentious wine bar archetype even further
It’s 2023 and Singapore’s wine bars have almost completely divorced themselves from the deep-rooted public perception — one of punctilious, snobbish inaccessibility. However, the new Kumi Den at Duxton might signify yet another paradigm shift for the casual wine bars of Singapore.
There are scarcely any parts of its decor to spotlight. Kumi Den is more reminiscent of a hole-in-the-wall Izakaya — this Duxton hideout comprises uncomplicated wooden fixtures that are mainly focused around a stripped-down wooden counter designed to provide an unobstructed view of the kitchen.
In contrast, the old guard had already entrenched themselves within a bubble of counter-culture where they defy de rigueur design ethos with wacky disco lights, whimsical trinkets, and hip tune curation. Kumi Den simplifies the archetype even further — there is no pomp, no pizzazz, only wine.
“We are a simple wine bar focused on wines more than anything,” is essentially what sommelier and part-owner Joel said. Intentional or not, this austerity is a respectable choice. Peak “unpretentiousness” would be a state of blase so the absence of trying to glorify its concept is, in itself, pretty damn nonconformist.
Of course, as a seasoned F&B stalwart, Joel also understands the importance of good food. Hence the muscle behind Kumi Den includes chef Javier Low of Iru Den, a concept on the cutting-edge of Modern Japanese cuisine, to ensure that the best gastronomical accoutrements accompany the alcoholic headliners.
Quality Bites at a Steal
Admittedly, as someone who enjoys dining and barhopping solo, Kumi Den is not the most conducive for a date with yourself. For starters, there probably isn’t an extensive range of wines that you can pick from by the glass.
Nonetheless, I promptly ordered a glass of Loveblock Pinot Noir 2020 ($21) since, well, I have complete faith in Joel. Sure it’s not exceedingly complex but this New Zealand medium-bodied red comes with just the right amount of depth while still remaining delightfully easy to drink.
It makes ordering food a bit of a challenge too since, according to Joel, some of the mains can prove too much for a single person. Then again it’s not such a bad thing since Kumi Den’s bites such as the Beef Tartare ($16) are absolutely sublime.
These gratifying morsels feature sheets of plush pillowy potatoes as beds, blanketed by a dreamily luscious layer of Tajima beef flank tartare, all pieced together with an exquisite richness while also given a galvanising jolt of funky fermented chilli heat.
Another standout bar snack at Kumi Den was the Ayam Balut ($18), which involved less complexity but was equally as bewitching with its explosion of flavours.
The canvases for this dish are succulent deboned chicken wings, distended with a glut of fish paste compacted into its hollow innards. Not only do the textures mingle immaculately, but that intoxicating smoky char, the chook’s juices, and the fish paste acidity coalesce in perfect synchronicity.
Although the original plan was to stop at two, I was profoundly swayed by my first two orders and went for an order of Prawn Toasties ($16). Even if prawn toasties are generally simple in scope, the usage of mildly spicy gochujang sauce and sprightly gherkins added convincing little idiosyncracies that balanced the profile.
I contend that this might be the weakest of the triad but Kumi Den still produces some moments of delectable textural interplay between the bouncy prawns and airy bread to keep it interesting.
At this point in time, Kumi Den is still barely in its nascency but I am mesmerised by these small but deftly executed bites.
I haven’t fully explored its potential as yet but plans are already being made as we speak to return for its mains and Joel’s fastidiously curated wines by the bottle.
Make your reservations here.
Kumi Den
- Address: 15 Duxton Rd, Singapore 089481
- Hours: (Tues–Sat) 5:30pm–12am, (Sun) 1pm–7pm