Kyuu By Shunsui Offers an Affordable omakase Whose price Tag demands a Double-take
Finding a Japanese Omakase restaurant in central Singapore is probably one of the easiest tasks. It’s an endless catalogue of Omakase joints on google maps though most charge a premium — a condition that makes Kyuu by Shunsui such a gem.
A gem but not a hidden gem. This is an establishment that’s part of a prolific group with multiple establishments in Singapore, first starting with Kappo Shunsui which earned itself a Michelin Plate for 4 consecutive years from 2018.
Nestled in a shophouse along Keong Saik, Kyuu by Shunsui belongs to the ubiquitous Kaiseki-style restaurant archetype, with a space allowing for more seatings than its elder sibling at Hong Kong Street.
It’s hard to find anything about the restaurant that stands out immediately — though, in a way, inconspicuousness is probably one of the best indicators of how good a traditional Japanese Omakase establishment would be.
Above all, it’s the value of Kyuu by Shunsui which grants it its charm. After all, S$99 (marked down from its usual price of S$129) is remarkably good value for an Omakase meal in Singapore.
The Basics are right
Kaiseki restaurants require a certain kind of all-roundedness in their team to handle different disciplines equally proficiently.
I think Kyuu by Shunsui’s finesse in its basics is evident, demonstrated by a flurry of daintily-set-up cooked appetisers to start, before transitioning into Sashimi, which requires a different kind of finesse.
In particular, the Sashimi showed sound knifework that underscored the inherent freshness of the fish — easily on par with many dedicated Sushi-Ya.
Everything from the outrageously luscious Hotate to the Maguro —characterised by robustness and a tender meaty bite– was spot on. I would have no complaints if I was served this at a Sushi Omakase.
Kyuu by Shunsui then follows up with an assortment of dishes —including non-surfeiting Tempura dishes and a punctiliously clean Flounder— that lead into one of my favourite dishes of the night.
That dish is the delectable Oyster that’s snuggly covered under a layer of bouncy, gelatinous millet-wheat gluten, accentuating the shellfish with distinct sweet-savoury notes and an endearing chew.
But the most intriguing dish at Kyuu by Shunsui had to be the A4 Wagyu Soy Milk Shabu Hotpot — a nebulous item with results depending on each pot’s idiosyncracies during boiling.
If cooked more evenly with consistent heat, it ends up with a richer and smokier profile from that extra bit of browning and more Wagyu flavours soaked up by the soup.
But in my case, where the aircon seemingly hampered the cooking, it was ultimately still a grower that dazzled with a milder oat-forward profile with enlivening specks of beef richness.
Overflowing
As mentioned before, the standard of oceanic produce at Kyuu by Shunsui is very high — which means, to no one’s surprise, the curtain-closing sashimi and sushi dishes were immensely satisfying.
There wasn’t a single step put wrong during the final stretch of the dinner. Everything from the Sushi platter —which starred a buttery soft Chuutoro— to the Unagi Handroll was more than up to scratch.
High-quality fresh fish aside, the star was indubitably Kyuu by Shunsui’s renowned Overflowing Ikura Rice Bowl, which pampers each diner with relentless dollops of sumptuous Ikura until they are reluctantly forced to utter a “stop”.
The dish speaks for itself with its exultantly towering pile of deep-amber fish roe. There are no hidden details, no furtive nuances, just a flavour parade full of exuberant umami fireworks.
Admittedly, the ending did fall short with the dessert, an Ice-Cream Monaka that was serviceable but didn’t quite live up to the rest of the meal.
Nonetheless, Kyuu by Shunsui still proves itself as a more-than-adequate Omakase experience throughout the multitude of courses.
This is an Omakase journey that presents some of the best and most unbeatable value for money in this oft-overpriced niche of Japanese food in Singapore.
It’s not perfect but perfection is a myth — no amount of virtuosity can realistically please every palate. But value? Value can sway all hearts, especially when your tummies are full and satisfied.
Make your reservations here.
Kyuu by Shunsui
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- Address: 29 Keong Saik Rd., Singapore 089136
- Hours: (Tues–Sun) 5pm–1pm
*This was an invited tasting.