Le Clos hosts an intimate New Bahru wine soiree with an unforgettable Croque Basque
Somma, Bar Bon Funk, Artichoke, et al. While New Bahru had only come into existence five months ago, it’s impossible to miss how the location has speedily grown into the prime estate for intimate hangout and date spots. It’s essentially an enclave of the most voguish third places currently in Singapore.
This compound is where the trendiest new restaurants and bars are found. Where discerning millennial diners would relish the ambience. Nibble on sandwiches, twirl some pasta, and slowly sip on a tipple.
Undoubtedly, the anchor restaurants exude the heaviest draw, but a new addition to New Bahru ought to win just as many hearts with its distinct, understated charm — Le Clos, the reincarnation of Clos Pasoh.
Renouncing the frou-frou and seriousness of the erstwhile establishment — which tied up operations in late 2023 — Le Clos finds itself flush into a corner unit at New Bahru, hosting both its delicatessen and casual wine bar concept.
Venturing into the wine bar area exposes living-room-style high table, flanked by vintage tiled walls and hoisted by grooved columns, while the back of the restaurant boasts a flourish of indoor plants lined around verdant lounge chairs.
The air smells of Bohemian chic, spectacularly fitting for the Josper-grill-driven modern French flavours and wine bar trappings that were to follow.
Le CLos’ Croque Basque
There are a myriad of dishes on the Le Clos menu. Alas, not all of them are created the same — because not all of them are the Croq’ Basque Chorizo, Caramelised
Onions & Roasted Piquillo Peppers ($25).
With Le Clos’ interpretation of the croque basque, the sandwich is reimagined with lusciously jammy caramelised onions, juicy and smoky peppers, and discs of umami-freighted French chorizo, clasped between two gratuitously crunchy slices of bread.
The fillings are a riot of flavours, with the chorizo umami being elegantly complemented by the acidity and sweetness of the onions and peppers, but the bread’s sublime airiness and delicate crunch? That’s its je ne sais quoi.
It’s not all French here though, as Le Clos brings many Mediterranean flavours into the fray through dishes such as the Watermelon, Feta & Mint ($20), too.
While this salad is all too banal in Greek settings, it’s done with finesse here as the watermelons are compressed to bring out more intense flavours and cultivate a denser mouthfeel.
The lightly savoury feta cheese and tart watermelon, bolstered by an extra burst of nutty fragrance from pine nuts, make for a fabulously refreshing entree that’s easily matched with any milder white — though Francois Cotat Sancerre Caillottes 2022 Sauvignon Blanc ($129) proved to have the best chemistry with its crisp citrus and mellow herbal notes.
Besides the croque basque, the Truffles & Morels Mushroom Risotto & Aged Comté ($34) also evoked deep limerence. It might be simple — and also not traditionally French — but this is one dish painstakingly stirred to perfection.
Its rice is dreamily velvety with its grains pristinely al dente, although I find my spoon lured deeper, trying to fish out the delectably juice-laden morels.
The dish’s greatest charm is in its layers of earthy zing. Truffle perfume swirling at the top. Sharp comte nuttiness giving a rounding touch. Exquisitely rich and buttery risotto.
In comparison to the smaller plates, the Macka’s Grass Fed Ribeye, Homemade Fries & Bordelaise Sauce ($39) would feel a bit unenthralling as a basic French steak frites.
Le Clos still does this classic dish plenty of justice, especially at the price, to be fair — Tender steak, thick fries with substantial and fluffy potato cores, and a moreish bordelaise sauce.
To go with it and the risotto, Le Clos recommends the Domaine Mayard Chateauneuf-du-pape ($155), a wonderfully versatile light red from Southern France.
Tending to go a bit towards a softly acidic dark-fruit profile, it still bestows a good bit of oaky depth to bolster the heavier flavours, along with a smooth and suave tannin finish that lingers nicely.
The Cider to rule all ciders
Anyone would assume the wine pairings as the undisputed heroes in a French-first wine bar concept like Le Clos.
After the savouries had their turn in the spotlight though, the Bordelet Poire Cormé 2019 ($13) thoroughly persuaded me otherwise.
Going astern of my apprehensions towards cider, this aged pear cider turned out stupefyingly sumptuous — sharp and elegant effervescence, met with a twinge of light funky dryness and accented by a subtle fruity sweetness.
The restraint in its sweetness meant it worked magic with desserts such as the profoundly zesty Homemade Lemon Gelato ($6) but might have found its best match in the Fruit Tart Sable of the Day ($16), studded with fresh, in-season raspberries.
So, yes, I think Le Clos is a gem amidst all the glitzy big names that fill out the halls of New Bahru.
A wonderful ambience, an unforgettable croque basque sandwich, and some mystifying wine (and cider) pairings mean any wine lover will be in for a hell of a time.
Make a reservation online before visiting Le Clos at New Bahru
Le Clos
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- Address: 46 Kim Yam Rd, #01-18 New Bahru, Singapore 239351
- Hours: (Mon, Wed) 2pm to 12am, (Thurs–Sun) 12pm to 12am
*This was an invited tasting.