Michelin-Starred Restaurant Matera: stylish Italian-Asian Coalescence on the Singapore River waterfront
Perhaps the once-dogmatic Michelin Guide sees its relevance challenged by this epoch of decentralised, digitally-dominated gourmet hunting. Nonetheless, it’s hard to argue the prestige of a Michelin star still holds sway over many, especially those convinced of the romanticism in fine dining.
There’s also a certain pride that wells up when burgeoning restaurants make the cut following your visit — and that’s the case for Restaurant Matera, a stylish modern Italian outfit perched over the Singapore River at Fullerton Boat House that had recently earned its laurels with a debut Michelin star.
This reminiscence dates back to a breezy late-May Tuesday. Golden hour, before night falls. An affair preceded by a sun-kissed welcome by the Art Deco architecture, followed by the warm smile of the door host who promptly showed me to my table, nestled deeper within the restaurant.
Plastered in sleek, lustrous whites, the main dining hall indulges guests with a waterfront glimpse of the skyline and a more robust view of the half-open kitchen orchestrated by Executive Chef Bjoern Alexander.
The vantage of the dining room might not be as stellar as one would expect —potent interior lights obfuscate the view after sunlight retires— but the setting inadvertently provides a quaint ambience for the ensuing culinary showcase, regardless.
Although the decor is more classic, Matera’s menus are a concerto of eclectic influences, meandering around the German’s diverse culinary influences, built up and stewed over tenures at luminaries such as Hong Kong’s Octavium and the eternally revered French Laundry.
Studying the menu reveals Chinese and Japanese elements as recurring motifs in the Matera Dinner Journey (from S$208 for 5 courses) — a coalescence of European and Asian flavours?
Sounds magical.
Asian-inspired Italian-chic
Even before the main event, Matera starts by lavishing tables with a spate of amuse bouche, with one particular trout roe tartlet showing the greatest charm, erupting in a deluge of roe umami.
The snacks also illuminate the culinary quirks permeating the rest of the menu, as more conventional modern European offerings such as the tartlet are juxtaposed against Chinese-inspired Spicy and Sour Fried Beef Chips.
The prelude is concluded with an intriguing take on the traditional bread course, where an infusion of Chinese black vinegar dyes the focaccia in a sexy darker caramel tone — though the condiment’s flavour presented less boldly on the palate.
We are then gently ushered to the direction of the mains with a peculiar chawanmushi twist. Matera’s interpretation starts with draping plump La Lune Oysters atop egg custard, then crowning the creation with a clutch of glistening caviar.
Silky and accented by the elegant, briny richness of the sea, it’s an unfamiliarly familiar dish that delivers the same comforting feeling chawanmushi is beloved for, but a little too surfeit for my comfort.
Following up on the interesting introduction, a Foie Gras dish is next to find its way to our table, exquisitely dolled up with dazzling fine-dining bells and whistles, jellies and flowers.
As expected, the protein was treated carefully — it’s a plush and velvety indulgence which also gracefully coats the tongue with oodles of glorious umami.
However, it’s Matera’s choice of accoutrements that make all the difference, as dainty touches of zesty sour papaya, vibrant chrysanthemum jelly, and sharp Szechuan pepper exquisitely massage through the heaviness of the Foie Gras.
The big finish
Now, the palate is primed for the unmistakable signature since day one, and a dish eloquently embodying Matera and Chef Bjoern’s modish Asian-Italian vision, the Red Prawn Ravioli.
It’s perhaps the dish where Chinese influences manifest the most prominently — it’s a majestic single dumpling, folded and crimped at the edges, and rested in a XO sauce-red prawn jus concoction that signals its intensity with a fierce shade of dirty maroon.
This is one splendorous parcel with sublime textures in, and out. The luscious red prawn easily steals the show, while dried scallops, XO sauce and jus inundate the palate with explosive fragrance and richness. Matera has made a sublime pasta classic.
Another menu highlight marks the end of the savoury courses: Wagyu Beef Donabe. Perhaps few would expect an Italian fusion restaurant to cycle through the Japanese claypot rice dish as a signature but —speaking with utmost earnestness— this rendition would surprise many.
Unlike convention, Matera’s donabe serves the protein separately from the rice — but that doesn’t hamper it. Textures are beyond pristine where the grains are fluffy, starchy and moist, with crispy bits furtively in their midst.
Comparatively, the wagyu was succulent and well done but not quite as impressive as other fine-dining restaurants. Still, the rice carries the ensemble and elevates the beef.
Serving the coup de grace is a Japanese Melon dessert, served with limoncello, tofu ice cream and Burrata which combine for a clean and delightfully refreshing palate cleanser.
Separately, a petit four is also tabled, featuring a rather intriguing choice of Pineapple Tart amongst the snacks. A simple but satisfying end with nothing much to elaborate on.
The course meal demonstrated that Matera is a well-thought-out concept which deftly marries Asia to Europe. Maybe the ideas are not avant-garde, but it’s bodacious enough that I think the Michelin Star is justified.
There are undoubtedly spots to polish for this still relatively young restaurant — but then again, the room for improvement ought to be a permanent fixture in the home of every chef who aims to stay in the glitzy world of fine dining and stars.
Make a reservation online before visiting Restaurant Matera at The Fullerton Waterboat House.
Restaurant Matera
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- Address: 3 Fullerton Rd, #02-01/02/03 The Fullerton Waterboat House, Singapore 049215
- Hours: (Tues) 6pm to 10:45pm, (Wed– Sun) 11:45am to 2pm, 6pm to 10:45pm
*This was an invited tasting.