Zhup Zhup by One Prawn & Co shows why its Potent prawn mee broth is worthy of the Michelin Bib Gourmand
The hawker trade. A calling so gruelling and unrewarding, it’s a terrifying leap for most young aspirants. Still, toil and success naturally follow — an industry wisdom exemplified by Zhup Zhup by One Prawn & Co, run by an alumnus of establishments such as Artichoke and Michelin-starred Burnt Ends.
That’s right — as much prestige as the fine-dining kitchens could bring, co-founder Chef Gwyneth Ang still let the impulse of opening her own concept take over, setting up a hawker stall dedicated to Penang-style prawn mee.
That was almost an eternity ago, but my mind still spits up vague recollections of One Prawn & Co’s nascency in 2019, when it called Golden Mile Food Centre home and fanfare had barely started swelling.
Half a decade has since crept by — these were years marked by inadvertent Michelin acknowledgement and a switch of scenery where the singular stall expanded to fill an entire kopitiam unit in quiet Macpherson.
Yet, 2024 seems to be a year of renaissance. Even with all its laurels, a bold decision was made to take on a new Zhup Zhup by One Prawn & Co identity.
Why? It’s a move best described as a declaration of the team’s desire to voyage beyond its simple devotion to Penang-style prawn noodles — that the team has matured beyond that, now dabbling in prawn-intense adjacent with a modern touch.
A broth’s Midas touch
Matured or not, it’s still imperative that the Prawn Mee (S$14) is included in every table’s orders — it’s that splendid. It’s hard to argue that Zhup Zhup by One Prawn & Co prices its offerings on the high end but it’s the price you pay for a chance at unadulterated seafood glory.
And glorious seafood flavours are the essence of Zhup Zhup by One Prawn & Co — ladles of liquid gold poured into claypots. A ferociously crimson concoction so thick and silky.
Mouth after mouth of umami, a harmonious storm of intoxicating shallot fragrance, gentle heat, and gratuitous prawn sweetness condensed into luxurious ramen-broth-esque slurps.
An order of the Supreme Prawn Mee ($20) is probably the best option given it runs the gamut of prawns, pork ribs, tobiko balls, lala and shabu pork.
No matter which component you fish out, the textures are pristine — fresh and bouncy seafood and tender pork ribs are undoubtedly great but the sexily thin and luscious shabu pork slivers are the real game changer that set it apart.
In contrast, the dry noodles were solid but a bit more run-of-the-mill and ran the risk of becoming neglected when juxtaposed against the headliner.
The beauty of the broth also seamlessly translates over to the Seafood Pao Fan ($16), one of the new stars of Zhup Zhup by One Prawn & Co. This showstopper is a dish that will earn your limerence as the Japanese pearl rice zealously sponges up the broth to deliver absurdly rich mouthfuls.
Remarkably, the rice holds up and keeps firm and separated. More entrancing was how the starch seemed to culminate in a thicker and creamier texture as time passed — akin to a compelling hybrid of seafood congee and risotto. Sublime.
Completing the trifecta is their take on Claypot Hokkien Mee ($14), a fabulously sloppy mound of noodles with a glassy dark-sauce sheen that’s robust as hell and bolstered with a lusty blast of wok hei.
This is a nice and saucy rendition with plenty of oomph and sweetness. Topped with fragrant chilli and decadent pork lard, it’s a pretty damn solid rendition that competes on the same level as some of the famous Hokkien Mee specialists out there.
Pretty commendable effort by Zhup Zhup by One Prawn & Co, since it’s probably one of the most complex local hawker dishes.
The menu also offers a commonly seen companion to prawn mee in Singapore, the Ngoh Hiang Tasting Platter ($8.50) — a rustic dish that’s hard to make spectacular.
Nonetheless, Zhup Zhup by One Prawn & Co aces the textures, best demonstrated through the addictive airy crackle of the prawn cracker and the enthusiastic recoil of the bouncy fish cake.
In many ways, this reminds me of when I first visited the stall on the second floor of Golden Mile Food Centre aeons ago. It’s sweet, it’s rich, and you can taste the earnest in the cooking.
Although some have argued its status as overpriced or gentrified prawn mee nowadays but, hey, I argue that our dedicated hawkers should be able to demand more when they go the extra mile — especially if we want our hawker culture to persist.
Zhup Zhup by One Prawn & Co
- Address: 458 MacPherson Road, Singapore 368176
- Hours: (Tues–Sun) 11am to 9pm
*This was an invited tasting.